after a long list of requests for making a guide.
I'm an experienced carder, carding tens of thousands of dollars worth of merchandise and rarely
failing. I share my knowledge for anyone who is ready to put a bit of money on the table and get some real up-to-date carding information.
Now, at the time of writing, I am the only one allowed to sell this guide. If you see anyone
selling my guide on EVO or anywhere else, let me know. I took time to write this guide, I appreciate when people recognize my work. please Pm me
So, let's get started! Today I will present you the points of carding.
Virtual Carding
1.1 – How It Works
1.2 - Account Take-Over Fraud
1.3 - Why Orders Get Canceled
1.4 - Drops
1.5 - Chargebacks
1.6 - Warranty Fraud
1.7 - Picking The Best Cards
1.8 - Commercial Fraud
1.9 - Newegg And TigerDirect
– Stripe Cashout
1.10
- Beyond the ATO – The PTO Chapter
2 – Protecting yourself
2.1 - Protecting Yourself Online
2.2 – Burner Phones
2.3 - AVS
2.4 - Flight Tickets
2.5 - GlossaryChapter 1 – Virtual Carding
This chapter is about virtual carding. Virtual carding is the art of ordering goods online using
stolen credit cards, also
known as “CVV”, “pizza”, any any other names the members of the community use
to disguise their intentions. Although this seems easy, there are many pitfalls you might want to
be aware of when doing that, especially since merchants are getting more and more aware of online fraud. Want to know how
to get free goods?
Let's get started!
Section 1.1 – How It Works
The first thing is to ask yourself, how much do you want to card, and what do you want to card?
Then, you will have to pick one of those 3 levels. Each level represents a difficulty level and you will see the
prerequisites.
Level 1: Easy carding
This level is used for very easy things to card, for example restaurants and small phone orders,
mostly under $50. This is the entry point of most carders. For that, you will need:
• Credit card number
• Expiration date
Level 2: Intermediate carding
This level is used for online transactions that are slighly higher, like background reports, or a
very small physical item.
You will need:
• Credit card number
• Expiration date
• CCV code
• Cardholder name
• Full billing address
• Sometimes, phone number of the account
Level
3: Hard carding
This is not recommenced for beginning carders. Here we are talking about everything above level 2,
such as large
physical items, or high-security websites like Newegg, TigerDirect, and sites that require
Account Take-Over (for ATO, see section 1.2 of this guide). Computer parts, electonics, and many
other items fall in
this level. You need:
• Credit card number
• Expiration date
• CCV code
• Cardholder name
• Full billing address
• Phone numbers
• SSN
• DOB
• Recommended, background report
If you are aiming for level 1 carding, you just need to call for pizza and order pizza to another
address,
no need to write lengthy paragraphs on this one. This is easy and is pretty straightfordward.If you
are aiming for
level 2, you can card background reports or small physical items, mostly under
$150. All orders are done online, and you will have to enter the correct billing address, shipping
address, and card
information.
Now, you must see if the websites says billing phone number on file with the bank, or simply
contact phone number. If
the website asks for billing phone number, you have to put the phone number on file with the bank
for the cardholder,
otherwise it is safe to put your burner phone number (see section 2.1 of this guide). Now, is the
website going to call
you? It depends on the order, their policy and their suspicion about you, so there's no safe answer
to this question.
Remember that carding is often trial and
error.
When you use a card to hit a website, do not hit another website using the same card until your
order has shipped.
Making an order go though and having a charge approval is easy, but getting it shipped is often
where the challenge
lies.
A level 2 site that is often carded is peoplefinders.com. This is where carders get most of their
background reports. It is a
good playground to test your skills, and will prove useful later.
Now, on to level 3. You probably saw the information required, now how to get it? First, if your
subject
is aged under 40, chances are that you are out of luck. Otherwise, read on.
First, you need to get the right type of card. This is called finding the right BIN (Bank
Identification
Number). The BIN is the first 6 digits on the card and is used to identify the card type as well as
the issuing bank. To
learn more, go to bindb.com, at the top go on Bin Search, and enter the first 6
digits of
the card. They will tell you the issuing bank, and card type. You have debit and credit cards, and
the card type can vary.
From the weakest to the strongest, they are:
• Secured: Very low limits, sometimes around $300
• Classic: Low limits, sometimes around $1000
• Gold: Average limits, can be around $3000
• Platinum: High limits, can be around $8000
• Business: Very high limits, in the 5 digits, often around $15,000
• Signature: The best ones, I got cards that had $30,000 of credit limit
•
Note that those numbers are subject to change according to the cardholder's credit score, history,
and spending
patterns. For the benefit of this guide, we will only work with credit cards. By experience, debit
cards often do not have
funds, and have tighter security for online purchases. In other words, they
are rubbish for level 3 carding, but may have other uses, like level 1 or level 2 purchases.
Register an account on any SSN finder site such as ssnfinder.ru or ssndob.cc and look for your
subject. At the same time,
go on peoplefinders.com and get the full background report of your subject using a level 2 card.
Once you have the
background report, look if the addresses and date of birth match on the report and on backstab. If
everything matches,
you can assume the SSN will be correct. Use your
common sense to compare the backstab and peoplefinders results to make sure you didn't get the
wrong information.
About 80% of the subjects over 40 years old can be found.
You have the SSN and DOB? Great! Now, time to get the mother maiden name. This is slightly harder
and will work if your victim is in one of those states: Arizona, California, Delaware, Idaho,
Indiana, Kentucky, Maine,
Maryland, Massachussetts, Minnesota, Nevada, New Hampshire, New Jersey, Ohio,Rhode Island, South
Dakota, Texas. Go
on archives.com and card an account, then look for your
subjet's mother (look at the background report for her name and date of birth), and try to look for
her birth record. This
is a trial and error case and works about 50% of the time.
Why get all this information? Because many level 3 swites will have either VBV (Verified by Visa)
or MCSC (MasterCard
Secure Code) protection during checkout. This is a form that is presented by the issuing bank of
the credit card and
asks for additional questions. Although every type of card is different, the commonly asked
questions are:
• Date of Birth
• Last 4 digits of SSN
• Full name on card
• Billing zip code
•
If you fail any of those questions, the order will not go through. Now, why did we need all this
information? Because we will perform a ATO on the account. This is tricky. Read the next section for a detailed description of Account Take-Over fraud.
Section 1.2 – Account Take-Over Fraud
Do you dream of carding thousands of dollars worth of computer hardware on Newegg? It's doable, but
not easy.
You have to follow the right steps. I carded a $10,000 gaming rig in under 2 weeks using platinum
cards by
following that guide, so I'm in position to tell you how.
First thing, check the balance of your credit card. Now, before going crazy, remember this rule of
thumb: Do not use
card checkers! They burn the card very quick. Let me explain.
Every transaction automatically gets a fraud score between 0 and 999. The system used to evaluate
transactions is the
same used by the big 4 banks and is called Fair Issac. Transactions having a fraud score over 300
will hit manual
review by an agent, who will decide if they contact the cardholder or just let it though. Scores
over 500 with auto-
decline, block the card, and an agent will contact th cardholder. Some banks have different criterias, but things that can affect the fraud score are:
• Comparison with the usual spending pattern of the cardholder
• Location of the charge
• Amount
• Risk factor of the associated merchant
For example, a $20 charge in the cardholder's local Walmart will not trigger anything, but a large
purchase of
$2000 on Newegg.com will have a high fraud score and probably auto-decline if the cardholder rarely
makes
online purchases.
So how is this relevant? A small card-not-present charge followed by a big charge will make the
fraud score very high,
because they assume you are testing the card. If they see a small $1 charge, then a few
minutes later a large purchase online, they will auto-decline the card and your plan will likely
fail. There are much
better ways to check if a card works. The best way is to call the bank's toll-free number
and use the automated prompts. This brings no danger, however use Spooftel to spoof your number to
display the
cardholder's number. Once you do that, you are ready to call the issuing bank's number and check
how much is left on
the card. Let's get to it.Call the bank using your burner phone and have in hand the
following information, according to
the
bank. The automated prompt will give you access to the transaction list, balance, and a few other
options. Here is the
information for the biggest 4 banks:
Chase Bank – 1-800-432-3117
• Full card number
• Zip code
Note: If you correctly spoofed the phone number, you will only be asked for the last 4 digits of
the card, otherwise you
will be asked for the full card number.
Citibank – 1-800-627-3999
• Full card number
• Last 4 digits of SSN
Bank of America – 1-888-421-2110
• Full card number
• Zip code
Capital One – 1-800-955-7070
• Full card number
• Last 4 digits of SSN
If, for any bank, you enter the card number and the system immediately transfers you to an agent
without additional
questions, it means the account is closed and the card is burnt. No need to waste time on this one,
just hang up and
use another card. The agent will only tell you the same thing, and you will look dumb.
It's always a good practice to take note of the last transactions and amounts, just in case you get
asked for them later. Listen to them and write them down, I recommend up to 8 transactions for maximum
safety.
So you have the balance and the available credit line now. Nice! So you know how much you can spend
online.
i think enough for today..have a good weekend and take care of yourselves.
